Antique Row Cafe: Cozy and Cute with Creative Cuisine

Perfect timing. It was 1 p.m., and apparently we had just missed the Sunday morning crowd at . I’ve heard there can be a wait on weekend mornings. Mama, one of the owners, greeted us warmly and told us they were clearing a table.

Within a minute we were seated at a comfortable booth by the window and checking out the menu. Our personable server, Fernando, explained the specials of the day and took our drink order with a smile. I got the immediate impression that service is an important factor at this place.

This was my first visit to Antique Row Cafe and I was surprised by all its kitschy memorabilia. The restaurant is decked out in a 1950s diner theme with a corresponding soundtrack crooning low-key rock 'n' roll tunes to the patrons. It was fun and friendly -- I liked it. The atmosphere is cozy and (for those over a certain age) familiar. Seeing so many touchstones from my youth enhanced the dining experience. I love you, Betty Boop!

The extensive menu offers many traditional American favorites, as well as daily specials. Breakfast is served all day long. The glutton in me said I had to try that day’s special of prime rib with eggs. My pick of available options were homestyle potatoes and sourdough toast, with my eggs poached medium. My partner decided on eggs Florentine, with a potato cake as her side. The third potato choice was the more traditional hash browns.

The food arrived in a timely manner, and the portions were monstrous. My meal took three plates -- the prime rib filled its own large plate, the second was for eggs and potatoes, and the last held two thick slabs of sourdough toast. This was one big breakfast.

I felt decadent as I cut into the prime rib with the provided giant steak knife and dipped the first piece in the au jus. It was tender and delicious. A definite step up from regular steak and eggs. The cheesy homestyle potatoes were also outstanding, with a nice Parmesan flavor. I had no complaints with the poached eggs or sourdough toast.

My dining companion said her eggs Florentine were very good, and loved the generous portion of spinach. She also said that the English muffins were very fresh and easy to cut … but then added, “Of course, that big-ass steak knife they give you could cut through anything.” She is such a delicate flower. We both agreed that her potato cake was tasty and quite savory.

Just as we were finishing our mammoth meals, Mama’s daughter and co-owner, Noemi Flores, came by to ask if we would like to sample a small taste of a few other breakfast items. She told us they are known for their sweet breakfast fare, and suggested we should have just a bit.

Soon we were sampling three more delicious dishes: two kinds of French toast and an order of biscuits and gravy. The “Ultimate” French toast had a twist, as it is made with a large cinnamon roll -- and is out-of-this-world good. Then there was French toast made from really good banana-nut bread, and topped with sliced bananas and whipped cream. A homemade biscuit smothered in gravy was the downhome topper to the meal -- and the point where I had to call time-out. But I’ll be back for another breakfast, and to try the lunch and dinner menus. 

Antique Row Cafe is located at 3521 Lemon Grove Avenue, on the corner of Lester Avenue. They take cash and credit cards, and offer beer and wine. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner Monday through Saturday from 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Breakfast and lunch is available Sunday from 6 a.m.–3 p.m. Breakfast specials are offered Monday through Friday from 6 a.m.–9 a.m., and dinner specials Monday through Saturday from 1 p.m.–6 p.m. They don't have a website, but you can call them at 619-828-0071 to place an order to go.