Getting Hooked On Fish at Anthony's

I was misinformed.

As a three-decade San Diego County resident, I've heard all the slams aimed at over the years: Too fishy. Too expensive. Too touristy. Too-dated décor.

All urban legends, I say. On a recent Saturday night at the Anthony's on Murray Drive, my dining companion and I enjoyed not just one of the finest seafood dinners we've ever had in San Diego County, but one of the finest we've had anywhere. We rarely gush about restaurant meals—she especially, coming from a family of professional chefs—but this one deserves to be gushed about.

The years of negative hype did make us a bit apprehensive. After all, any restaurant with a scallop shell-shaped entry, Goldfish cracker-like mobiles, faux octopi hanging on the light globes, a King Neptune mosaic and its own lake out back can't be serious when it comes to turning out fine food, right?

Wrong, Nemo breath. Things got off to a great start with white clam chowder ($3.95)—rich, thick, creamy, definitely not from a can. It was an even sweeter deal because I'd joined Anthony's e-mail club, which sent a coupon for a free cup with each adult entrée.

For an appetizer, we dived into the coconut shrimp ($7.50). The crumb-coated crustaceans were lightly batter-fried, tender and had just the right coconut-y hints, not at all like their overpowering, sugary counterparts at other seafood restaurants in town.

The complimentary bread rolls were thick, yeasty and accompanied by soft butter blended with sundried tomatoes, roasted garlic and parmesan cheese. We devoured the contents of two butter ramekins (no little foil-wrapped butter pats here).

My entrée, the fresh swordfish fillet, was pricier than expected at $26.95 but worth every penny. It was as thick as a steak, perfectly grilled and lightly coated with lemon butter. Heck, it even resembled a fish with eye, mouth and fin when viewed from above (check out the photo if you don't believe me). It tasted fresher and better than any swordfish I'd had at Anthony's costlier competitors downtown. It was beautifully presented, with the perfectly steamed carrot and string bean slices all lined up in the same direction. The yellow rice was fluffy and filling. The meal was large enough for two but so wonderful that I polished it off on my own.

My companion's entrée, the fillet of sole ($18.95), with lemon butter and tartar sauce, was sweet, light, mild and likewise perfectly sautéed. Again, it rivaled any sole served at the fancy places around town. The delicious baked potato on the side was huge, loaded with butter, sour cream and green onions, and also big enough for two. The leftovers made a great lunch the next day.

For dessert, we shared the zabaione ($4.95), a traditional Italian pound cake made with egg yolks and sugar, smothered in a smooth custard with the right touch of rum, and accompanied by big scoops of great spumoni. We also tried the small chocolate mousse ($2.50) topped with whipped cream and a cherry. It wasn't as smooth, dense or chocolaty as other mousses I've tasted, but still a wonderful ending to a wonderful meal.

This Anthony's is a sprawling place, with several dining areas and outdoor seating by the lake. Take a virtual tour to check out the retro ambiance. No tablecloths here, emphasizing the casual atmosphere. The upholstery is nautically themed. The walls and even the salt-and-pepper caddies are clad in slate-gray rock siding. You can view or download the menu to get an idea of what's available and what it will cost. Our tab came to $69.37 including the gratis chowder and before the tip.

Our waitress and busboy were polished and attentive. Meals were served promptly and our water glasses were never empty. The bar area looked friendly and inviting.

The deli counter by the main entrance sells reasonably priced fresh fish including swordfish, salmon, flounder, halibut, mahi-mahi and shrimp, plus house-brand tartar sauce, cocktail sauce and Caesar dressing. The Bay Brunch menu is offered Sundays until 4:30 p.m.

Anthony's bills itself as "A Healthy Tradition since 1946." Despite all the slams and pans, I'd say the Anthony's chain has a healthy following that plans to keep coming back for more. I can't remember the first time I ate at Anthony's. But after this long-overdue visit, I know it won't be the last.